Saltwater Pools: Myths, Problems & Smart Design Solutions

Saltwater pools have become increasingly popular, and for good reason. Many homeowners like that the water feels softer on their skin, they don’t have to handle as many harsh chemicals, and the whole swimming experience can feel more gentle and “natural.”

But there’s an important detail that people don’t always talk about:
Saltwater pools affect how the pool water and surrounding materials behave over time.

That doesn’t mean saltwater pools are bad. It simply means they need to be planned, built, and maintained more carefully.

Most problems people blame on saltwater pools are not actually caused by the salt itself. They usually result from using the wrong materials, overlooking small construction details, or taking shortcuts during construction. Below is a clear, research-based look at common saltwater pool myths and what really matters if you want your pool to stay comfortable and last a long time.

Saltwater Pools & Health: The Reality

Saltwater Pools Still Use Chlorine

Many people think saltwater pools are chlorine-free. They are not.

In a saltwater pool, there is a special machine called a salt chlorine generator. You add salt to the water, and this machine converts it into chlorine using electricity. So the difference is how the chlorine is made, not whether there is chlorine in the water.

If the water chemistry is not balanced correctly, you can have the same chlorine-related problems in a saltwater pool as in a regular chlorine pool; in fact, some say it can cause greater damage to surfaces when not monitored.

Eye Irritation: Possible, but Often Less

Can saltwater pools make your eyes burn or feel itchy?  Yes, but it depends on how the water is cared for.

Eye irritation is usually caused by things like:

• pH that is too high or too low (pH is how we measure if water is more “acid” or “base”)
• High chloramines (these are “used-up” chlorine compounds that can smell strong and feel harsh)
• Sunscreen, sweat, and other stuff people bring into the pool
• Poor circulation or weak filtration, so the water doesn’t get cleaned well

If the salt level or pH is too far outside the normal range, your eyes can feel uncomfortable. However, many trusted sources and many pool owners report that saltwater pools often cause less eye irritation. That’s because the chlorine level tends to stay more steady, and chloramines are usually lower.

In other words, eye irritation is almost always a water chemistry problem, not a “too much salt” problem.

Disinfection Byproducts & Chemical Concerns

Saltwater pools still produce chlorine byproducts, as we mentioned, especially when chlorine reacts with organic matter, such as sweat, body oils, and leaves. These byproducts are called CHLORAMINES and can irritate the skin or eyes if they build up too much.

Having a salt system does not mean you can stop taking care of the water. You still need:

pH control, regular water testing, and proper sanitation levels (active chlorine)

When water chemistry is regularly checked and adjusted, saltwater pools are not automatically harsher or more dangerous for swimmers than other pools.

Skin Dryness & Salt Levels

The amount of salt in a pool, "usually about 3,000–3,500 parts per million," is much lower than that of the ocean. Ocean water is many times saltier.

Some people may experience dry skin if the pool chemistry is not properly maintained. But many swimmers say the opposite, they feel like the water is softer, their skin is less itchy, and their hair feels better in a well-maintained saltwater pool.

Why Saltwater Pools Change How Materials Age

Big Picture:
Saltwater damage usually doesn’t happen overnight. It is slow, builds up over time, and can be hard to see in the early years.

Here’s a key point: salt does not disappear when water dries. Water can evaporate (turn into vapor and go into the air), but salt stays behind. When pool water dries on a surface, the salt can:

• Settle into tiny holes and gaps (pores) in concrete, grout, and stone
• Turn into salt crystals as the water dries
• Push against the inside of the material as these crystals grow

Over many cycles of getting wet and drying out, this gentle pushing can slowly weaken materials if the pool was not designed or built to handle salt exposure.

This process doesn’t usually cause a sudden crack or break; it gradually wears things down when the wrong materials or details are used.

Where Material Problems Actually Start And How to Prevent Them

1. Tile & Grout: Often the First Failure Point

What Can Happen

• Grout is wearing away or cracking
• White, chalky, or powdery deposits (called efflorescence)
• Tile that becomes loose or sounds hollow when you tap it

Why

Grout, the material between tiles, is often cement-based and full of tiny pores. Saltwater can easily soak into it. When water evaporates, leaving the salt behind, the growing salt crystals within the grout can weaken it and cause it to crack or crumble over time.

What Homeowners Should Ask For

• Epoxy grout instead of standard cement grout (epoxy is denser and less absorbent)
• Dense, glazed, or porcelain tile that doesn’t soak up much water
• Proper water chemistry and regular cleaning of the waterline where the tile meets the water

Important note: People often blame the tile when they see problems, but in many cases, the real weak spot is the grout holding the tile in place.

2. Coping: Natural Stone vs. Smarter Alternatives

Coping is the “picture frame” around the top edge of the pool, the material your feet touch when you walk around the pool’s rim.

Potential Issues of Natural Stone, Travertine, Limestone, and Sandstone

• Flaking or pieces of the surface breaking off (spalling)
• Small holes forming on the surface (pitting)
• Uneven color or stains

Why

Natural stone is full of tiny spaces where water and salt crystals can enter. Saltwater can move below the surface, and when the water dries, the salt turns into crystals inside the stone. Over time, this can cause thin stone layers to lift and break away, especially in sunny areas where water evaporates quickly.

Prevention

• Use dense, high-quality stone that absorbs less water
• Apply professional-grade penetrating sealers, and reapply them when recommended
• Design the coping with proper overhangs, drip edges, and drainage so water doesn’t sit where it shouldn’t

Porcelain Coping

Porcelain is usually very dense and highly resistant to salt; however, how it is installed matters just as much as the setting material itself.

Best Practices

• Use mortars and adhesives that are rated for saltwater exposure
• Include proper expansion joints so materials can move slightly without cracking
• Add flexible detailing at spots where the pool and deck can move differently

When the whole system, not just the tile, is installed correctly, porcelain coping can perform exceptionally well around a saltwater pool.

3. Concrete Decks & Hardscape

The deck is the walking surface around the pool, often made of concrete.

Common Issues

• Surface scaling or spalling (the top layer chips or peels)
• Efflorescence (white, chalky residue on the surface)
• Thin, hairline cracks

Why

Concrete is both porous (it absorbs some water) and alkaline (basic in pH). Saltwater can:

• Enter tiny cracks and pores
• Keep moisture inside the slab longer
• Accelerate the wear within the concrete and increase the risk of the steel inside the concrete rusting.

Decorative concrete finishes, such as stamped patterns or colored surfaces, are often more fragile than thick, plain structural concrete slabs.

Prevention

• Use a proper concrete mix designed for durability in outdoor and salt-exposed areas.
• Allow the concrete to fully cure and gain strength before allowing it to contact saltwater.
• Install true expansion joints, not just decorative cuts, so the deck can move without cracking.
• Use breathable, salt-resistant sealers that allow moisture to escape while blocking most water and salt from entering.
• Slope decks slightly away from the pool so water drains off instead of puddling

4. Metal Components: Small Details, Big Impact

Metal parts may look small, but they matter a lot around a saltwater pool.

At-Risk Items

• Handrails and ladders
• Drain grates
• Glass fence hardware and fasteners
• Outdoor furniture and metal bases

Salt speeds up rust and corrosion, even on some metals sold as “stainless steel” if they are not the right grade.

Best Practices

• Choose marine-grade stainless steel (often labeled 316), which is better for salty or coastal environments.
• Avoid mixing different types of metals, as this can accelerate corrosion.
• Rinse metal parts with fresh water from time to time, especially after heavy use.
• Isolate metal from direct contact with concrete when needed, so moisture and chemicals do not get trapped against the metal.

It can help to think of a saltwater pool like a mild version of living near the ocean: you choose materials and details as if the environment is a little coastal, even if you’re inland.

5. Expansion Joints: The Most Overlooked Protection

Expansion joints are flexible gaps that let different parts of the pool and deck move slightly as temperatures change or the ground shifts. In a saltwater pool, these joints are especially important.

What Can Go Wrong

• The flexible sealant in the joint breaks down or pulls away
• Water sneaks under the deck or into spaces it shouldn’t reach
• The deck starts to move, lift, or crack

Prevention

• Use high-quality, flexible (elastomeric) joint materials made for exterior, wet environments.
• Place joints in the right locations, especially where the coping (pool edge) meets the deck.
• Plan for regular inspections and maintenance; expansion joints are not “set it and forget it” details.

This single design and maintenance step often makes the difference between a deck that lasts about 10 years and a deck that can perform well for 30 years or more.

Why Some Saltwater Pools Have No Issues

You may hear someone say, “We’ve had a saltwater pool for years and never had a problem.”

When that happens, it usually means:

• The builder chose materials that work well with salt
• The pool was detailed and installed carefully
• Drainage was designed so that water doesn’t sit where it can cause damage
• The water chemistry has been checked and maintained regularly

Saltwater pools are not “out to get you.” They simply make good design and good workmanship more important. When everything is done thoughtfully, saltwater pools can perform very well. When shortcuts are taken, salt tends to reveal those shortcuts sooner.

Below is a polished, drop-in “bonus section” draft you can add to the article or use as a standalone education piece.
Tone, depth, and structure are aligned with your educator-first, premium positioning, factual, calm, and prevention-focused.

Why Salt Accelerates Equipment Corrosion

Saltwater pools don’t just affect finishes and decking; they also change how pool equipment ages over time. While salt systems are safe when properly maintained, salt creates a more corrosive environment for mechanical components, especially when chemistry or installation details are overlooked.

Understanding where corrosion occurs and how to prevent it is key to protecting long-term performance and avoiding premature equipment failure.

Saltwater pools contain dissolved salt. While this is far below ocean water levels, it still:

• Increases water conductivity

• Accelerates electrochemical reactions

• Amplifies corrosion when metals are exposed to moisture

Salt doesn’t need to be in direct contact with equipment to cause damage. Salt spray, evaporation, and humid air around the equipment pad can all contribute to corrosion over time.

Pool Equipment Most Vulnerable to Salt Corrosion

Heaters: The Most Common Failure Point

Pool heaters are particularly vulnerable in saltwater environments because their internal components are largely metal and are exposed to both water and heat, two conditions that accelerate corrosion.

Why Heaters Fail Faster in Saltwater Pools

• Heat exchangers are typically made of copper, cupro-nickel, or stainless steel.

• Salt increases electrical conductivity, speeding up galvanic corrosion

• Low pH, high salt levels, or improper bonding can rapidly attack metal surfaces

• Poor water flow or scale buildup further concentrates corrosion in the exchanger

Once corrosion begins inside a heat exchanger, it is a matter of time until the unit is destroyed, and in many cases that means full heater replacement is needed.

• Progressive

• Often hidden until performance drops

• Expensive to repair or replace

Other equipment at Risk

• Pump motor housings and fasteners

• Filter clamps and internal metal components

• Salt chlorine generator cells (sacrificial over time)

• Unions, fittings, and metal valves

• Electrical connections and bonding hardware

Corrosion often begins as surface rust or discoloration, but internal degradation may already be underway.

Salt alone is rarely the sole cause. Rapid equipment failure usually involves one or more of the following.

• Low pH or acidic water

• Improper bonding or grounding

• Incompatible metals installed together

• Poor ventilation around equipment pads

• Lack of sacrificial protection (anodes)

• Incorrect salt levels

Long-Term Corrosion Prevention: Best Practices

1. Choose Salt-Compatible Equipment

• Specify heaters designed for saltwater systems

• Use cupro-nickel or titanium heat exchangers where appropriate

• Avoid mixing dissimilar metals in plumbing and fittings

2. Install Sacrificial Anodes (Critical)

Sacrificial anodes are among the most effective and overlooked forms of corrosion protection.

How They Help

• Anodes corrode first, protecting more expensive equipment

• They reduce galvanic corrosion throughout the system

Anodes should be:

• Bonded adequately to the system

• Inspected annually

• Replaced as they wear

3. Maintain Proper Water Chemistry

Consistent chemistry is the single most significant factor in heater longevity.

Critical Ranges

• pH was kept stable and within the recommended range

• Salt levels maintained per manufacturer specs

• Calcium hardness is balanced to prevent scaling

• Proper flow rates through heaters

Even a short-term chemical imbalance can significantly shorten equipment life.

4. Proper Bonding & Grounding

Electrical bonding equalizes electrical potential across metal components and reduces galvanic activity.  Poor bonding can:

• Accelerate corrosion dramatically

• Void equipment warranties

• Cause premature heater and pump failure

This is a design and installation issue — not a maintenance one — and must be done correctly from day one.

5. Equipment Pad Design Matters

• Elevate equipment to prevent standing water

• Provide airflow and drainage

• Avoid salt spray accumulation

• Rinse equipment periodically in high-exposure areas

Salt-laden moisture trapped around equipment can cause corrosion even when water chemistry is perfect.

Saltwater pools are not harmful to equipment by default, but they demand more thoughtful planning and protection.

Heaters fail early, not because saltwater is “bad,” but because:

• Materials weren’t selected for salt exposure

• Protective measures were skipped

• Chemistry wasn’t consistently maintained

With salt-compatible equipment, sacrificial protection, proper bonding, and ongoing maintenance, pool equipment — including heaters — can perform reliably for many years in saltwater environments.

Saltwater pools can be an excellent choice for many homeowners, provided the pool is designed and built for saltwater.

Most material problems around saltwater pools are not caused by salt alone. They usually come from:

• Materials that don’t match the demands of a saltwater environment
• Poor or rushed installation
• Missing or failed expansion joints
• Weak drainage design
• No clear plan for long-term inspection and maintenance

The real difference between a pool that lasts about 10 years and one that lasts 30 years or more is not just the type of sanitation system. It’s the quality of the materials, the level of design detail, and the care put into planning and maintenance.

At J Designs Pool & Spa, we believe that when clients understand how their pool really works, they can make smarter choices. Those better choices lead to pools that not only look beautiful when new but also age gracefully, season after season.

In addition to these precautions, we also follow guidance from the American Concrete Institute, which has studied concrete performance for more than 100 years. For pools that use salt systems or are located in coastal environments, we work with engineers to specify a minimum 5,000 PSI, high-density concrete mix with fewer open pores, helping to limit salt penetration, protect the reinforcing steel, and reduce the risk of premature structural corrosion.

You still want to learn more? The following article compares Salt Systems vs Alternative Options